Post: Kalymnos 1

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Hello!

Now I’m sitting on the patio outside the apartment we rented in Kalymnos absorbing the nutrients in the salad and drinking cheap Greek beer.  One of the skinny white stray cats that lives around here is walking around but won’t let me pet him.

A couple weeks ago I spent a day seeing the tourist sites in Athens that I was excited about and the for the past week or two Naomi and I have alternated climbing with volunteering at Piraeus Port in Athens where there are camps of refugees.  I’ve written much about that and I want to write more, and I’ll share it when it’s ready.  It’s a lot for me to experience and consider and process emotionally (and how it will affect me practically), and that’s why I haven’t been writing much on here lately.

So it seems like we have had a really full, multi-faceted trip, which I’m grateful for, and which raises some questions for me.

(Even writing about questions as trivial as how I want my future climbing to look makes me anxious and impatient to answer more pressing questions like how can we change the world and do I or does anyone else even matter; can any of us make this a better place?)

My day today consisted of my own tiny amount of paradise.  We woke up late, walked to the crag, it was really freaking hot but it’s fine and we’re happy to tolerate it, we climbed a few hard routes on some of the fantastic and amazing tufas Kalymnos is known  for (fuck yeah! Woo!), realized that we weren’t tolerating the heat and humidity as well as we thought, found free drinkable water (the tap water is super salinated), took our gear back to the apartment, dealt with some stuff we had to deal with, walked to the beach in our swimsuits with open beers because we do whatever the fuck we want, swam, drew, thought about stuff, came back to the apartment, and had salad and another beer.  So, that’s rad right?  There are even cats.  (There is a lot of tourist souvenirs that are cat oriented in Kalymnos, which… duh.  And thanks.)  (Oh goodness.  Speaking of cats, there are three cats on this terrace witg me, and they are all playing a game where they kill/catch and walk around with cockroaches in their mouths.  They are 100% little angels.  It’s really funny to watch.)

I mean, the next few days are going to be very different from what we’ve been doing: spending a lot of time experiencing a different culture and finding a cause we cared about to work for and sharing our time between all those things.  And this is different than the other climbing trips I’ve been on, which were camping based and during which not much else occupied me at all.

Another thing I’ve noticed is that Naomi always has goals, like trip goals and daily goals and route goals, and I don’t.  I don’t usually like to come with expectations or specific hopes, especially with climbing since that hasn’t worked well in the past.  I’m wondering if I want to be more goal oriented as a climber or traveler.  I don’t really have life goals either.

So this is the shit I’m thinking about, finishing my beer, watching the moon pass through the sky as cats play with cockroaches as if they were toys on our shared patio.  Seems to me like there aren’t really answers because those weren’t really questions, and I’m not about to put value judgements on everything with “should I…?” questions.  I’m gonna sleep hard and climb hard tomorrow and maybe write about it.

Peace

Jenn

Post 1

Today was our first day climbing in Athens!  However, we didn’t climb anything and instead we walked around with backpacks full of our gear and food for five hours.

Some background information:  Last winter Naomi and I decided to take a long trip somewhere, and we chose Athens.  Culturally, Greece is so full of history and mythology (both from the ancients and from my own imagination) and has shaped our own upbringing and education and aesthetics and dreams.   The current situation in Greece is a balance of this proud, seemingly immortal heritage with financial and social flux and change.  Participating in such a transitional, evolving culture is exciting and we hope to evolve our own world views and philosophies as we experience what it really means to change here.  Logistically, we want to climb some rocks, and Greece has many.  The obvious Greek climbing destination is Kalymnos, and we may travel there later in the trip, but we chose to explore the many sport climbing areas around Athens so our home base would immerse us most in the culture we were craving and give us the opportunity to really interact with it. So, we rented an apartment near downtown Athens for 20 days, and we have a week after that to go wherever we feel like exploring.

So back to present day: We arrived yesterday and decided to buy some food and wander around.  Fresh produce is for sale on many street corners in small Greek bodegas, which I’m sure there is a non-Spanish word for, where you can get rice, lentils, wine in 1.5 liter plastic bottles, and many other things you may need.  Produce, rice, lentils, and wine pretty much cover it for me.  The smell of pollution and urine that is familiar in many giant cities is present here, and clashes with the bright colors of ripe fruit and vegetables, and with the overwhelmingly warm and helpful attitudes of the folks we talked to.  Many people speak some English, and many don’t, so repeating “yasas,” “efharisto poli,” and “parakalo,” as well as continually trusting the gestures and intentions of strangers quickly became routine.  Graffiti and posters (both radical and commercial) are omnipresent and beautiful.  It’s a constant reminder of struggle and oppression in Athens and in Europe and the Middle East, and my attention is pulled from my daydreams of climbing back to the present and I appreciate that.  After walking around our neighborhood, we wander in the general direction of “most of the cool ancient stuff in Athens” and holy cow there is the freaking Parthenon on a hill right in front of us.  The transition from crowded narrow streets lined with markets and  innumerable, identical, fig-studded, decaying apartments to crowded wide streets littered with cordoned off ruins and history with tourist-friendly post-card stands is sudden and immediate for me.

As excited as I was in those moments, we made our way back to the apartment for rest before our first day of climbing.  We planned to walk to the area the closest to downtown Athens, Iera Odos, which would be about 1.5-2 hours each way and be really hot in the middle of the day.  This morning, with half Greek and half kind of phonetic directions that we had gotten from the internet in our apartment written on a piece of paper, we left our apartment and immediately went the wrong way, several times.  Then we figured out which way was north, tried again, and were much more successful, until we couldn’t find the streets anymore and realized we missed another turn.  After consulting with several nice folks on the street who didn’t speak English and using a really wonderful person’s phone in one of a shockingly large number of bakeries, we got new directions.  Again, we immediately couldn’t find the streets we needed.  We walked by a cemetery, devoid of grass like most of Athens but full of ornate stone grave markers and most with colorful flowers, used their tiny restroom, and deliberated in the company of a herd of cats.  (Tune in later for more detailed information on the stray cat scene in Athens.)  We had been gone over 3.5 hours and were tired and annoyed and it was hot (and it turns out we weren’t even really that close to the climbing, just impressively lost and inefficient) and we called it a day.  Getting home was much easier since we knew where we were going.  On our way we got a sim card for Naomi’s phone so we could try again tomorrow with the help of maps on the internet that we can access from anywhere.

Hopefully sometime soon I’ll be able to write about climbing I’ve actually managed to do during this fancy international climbing trip.  That would be rad.  Maybe next time.  Maybe not next time.  We’ll just have to see.

Peace,

Jenn